A creative dining experience at Gilbert’s Underground Kitchen

Submitted by Gerry Clare
Roving Reporter
Photos by Tom Clare
March 4, 2015 11:46 a.m.

Chef Kenny Gilbert is offering a new approach to dining in Fernandina Beach. The pop-up restaurant is like those restaurants and supper clubs in New York and Los Angeles, according to Gilbert. And yet, the cuisine is southern comfort cuisine at affordable prices.

Although the restaurant had a soft opening and has been serving for about a week, Chef Gilbert offered a tasting of the featured core menu to members of the press earlier this week and it did not disappoint.

Located on South 8th Street in the previous Merge restaurant building, Gilbert’s UK has expanded and offers three venues. The front section is still cozy and warm as the “Safe House” Lounge. (Check out the antiques and eclectic décor. Off the kitchen is the newly expanded and glassed-in “Muscadine Hall,” with a smart, comfortable chic clean look. Finally, the outside patio, “Datil Pepper Park” has heaters for those chilly days, a smoker, and more casual dining.

Gilbert’s approach is “comfort, safety, and quality and a neighborhood approach.” He and general manager, Lee Thrower, seated us in the cheerful Muscadine Hall and treated us to bowls of various offerings on the core menu such as Brunswick Stew with smoked alligator, ham hocks, turkey, lima beans and various herbs with skillet cornbread and drop biscuits. Try the alaga cane syrup butter (as in Alabama-Georgia) and green tomato jam.

A fresh shrimp salad and southern vegetables was delicious as was the BBQ alligator ribs with rice, padron peppers and citrus mop. But the southern fried chicken developed for Oprah, was fabulous…brined before frying, crispy and moist.

We can’t wait to try Pork Belly, Grilled Hanger Steak with Corn Bread Stuffing and so many other interesting offerings. The Greens….Collards, Mustard, Turnip and Kale…were a wonderful addition. Gilbert noted that many of these dishes can be served for 2 to 4 people and split to provide a taste of each and therefore “affordable” compared to other more expensive restaurants on our island.

The piece de resistance was dessert. I wanted to take the Vanilla Cheese Cake Soft Serve (with marinated strawberries) and pour it over the Coca Cola Chocolate Bread Pudding (with sour cream chocolate icing and dried cherry preserve) and just eat the whole thing, but I was full and my photographer¬¬-husband would have been embarrassed. He was trying to take pictures before we ate everything.

Gilbert mentioned that after a month or so, there would be a few other themes, such as a week of Thai or other offerings in addition to the core menu, so you need to consult his website at www.undergroundkitchen.co for updates, hours and reservations.

Editor’s Note: Gerry began free lance writing for fun and is the author of a published book (available on Amazon and at Books Plus) about funny real estate experiences. Gerry is a longtime member of our local American Business Women’s Chapter, a volunteer cancer driver and church deacon who loves to read, travel and meet interesting people.