Amelia's Last Great Grove of Sabal Palms Hangs in the Balance

By Lauri deGaris

Recently, I walked along the south end of Amelia Island’s beach with a dear friend. As we approached the 52-acre, undeveloped Riverstone parcel, I stood in awe of a great grove of palm trees rising to the sky like parasols. Hundreds and hundreds of tall, slender sabal palms stand anchored in the sand dunes, like sentinels by the sea.

Without a doubt, this grove of palm trees is the largest and last grove of its kind on Amelia Island. The grove is a stunning sight, especially for us longtime Floridians. We know the historical value of this native tree found in marshes, hammocks, and along seashore dunes.

The sabal palm is native to southeastern North America and the Bahamas. Naturally, the sabal palm grows in large clumps called groves. The tree trunk is encased in plaited-like “boots,” which are old leaf bases. Boots are found on mostly young palm trees. As the tree matures, many shed the boots, revealing a smooth trunk that towers 40 to 60 feet tall. The sabal or “cabbage” palm is the state tree of Florida and South Carolina. Although, in South Carolina, it is called the sabal palmetto.

The fan-shaped leaves of the sabal palm are green and grow four to six feet in length. This palm produces a long droop with greenish-white, fragrant flowers about one-quarter inch wide. The fruit is one-half inch round and brownish-black in color. It is a favorite food for many foraging birds.

Birds are not the only ones who enjoy the sabal palm tree. The heart of the sabal palm tree was very important to Indigenous people living along the coast of southeast North America. People have been consuming heart of palm for thousands of years. The tradition of harvesting hearts of palm for food remained a healthy part of the Southern diet until just after World War II.

In 1942, Majorie Kinnan Rawlings wrote that swamp cabbage is the sportsman’s friend. “If one makes camp near a palm-grove he can use this vegetable to accompany his fish or game directly from the land.” In Marjorie’s cookbook “Cross Creek Cookery," she notes that she is “uneasy about recommending swamp cabbage, for this greatest of Florida vegetables is the white core of a young palm tree.” Its cutting means the death of the tree. She says, “I fear always that some enterprising backwoodsman will take a notion to send them to market, and that the beautiful tropical palm groves will be decimated.”

Majorie does proceed to describe how to pick the perfect palm as food. She instructs one to choose a young tree from a large grove that will not be missed. The tree must be no more than 10 feet tall, or the core will be tough and bitter. Palms growing too close to water are also likely to be bitter. Majorie notes the Florida bear knows the goodness of this food. Bears slash the palms to their roots and harvest the heart with their giant, fork-like claws.

Marjorie’s cookbook offers several recipes for hearts of palm, which are similar in flavor to chestnuts. Her advice is to thinly slice the heart of palms and boil with bacon. Or, one can substitute butter for bacon, add a small amount of water and salt to sliced hearts of palm, and simmer until tender. Finish the dish by adding just enough cream to cover the hearts, simmer a minute more, and serve at once. Marjorie claims hearts of palm prepared this way is a dish fit for a king.

Personally, I love hearts of palm. My favorite heart of palm recipe comes from long-time friend and chef Art Jenette. Art calls himself the “Art of Cracker Cookin,” and his recipe for hearts of palm salad dressing is the best.

In a food processor, combine one 16-ounce can of hearts of palm, drained, with ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup white vinegar. Add to this one small jar of pimento, ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese, two cloves of garlic, and a large pinch of sugar, salt, and pepper to taste. Pulse in processor until all ingredients are blended well. Add a little water, if necessary, to thin the dressing. This dressing is perfect on a bed of mixed greens.

It is illegal to harvest hearts of palm in North America today. However, Central and South American hearts of palm are commercially cultivated. You can find them canned in local supermarkets. Publix on the island carries canned hearts of palm.

Today, it is not the backwoodsman taking cabbage palms that worries me. It is unbridled growth that is decimating the sabal palm groves native to this region that worries me. Sabal palm trees can withstand hurricane-force winds. They provide food and shelter for many kinds of birds. The tall, stately sabal palm also casts a shadow on sunny days, which can be very welcoming during the long, hot summer.

The fate of the last great grove of sabal palms residing on Amelia Island will be decided in court. With all my heart, I hope this grove of sabal palms will be anchored in the dunes along our beaches for generations to come as part of Amelia Island State Park.

The Amelia Island Tree Conservancy and Citizens Against Runaway Development are fighting to protect the 52-acre Riverstone oceanfront site from development. Updated information about current litigation and ways you can support their effort can be found here.

May the last great grove of sabal palms on Amelia Island be protected so we can stand in awe as we observe this tropical treasure from Mother Nature.